Naturally Speaking is our blog where we explain horticultural trends and concerns. We cover proper lawncare techniques and answer any questions our customers may have.
Proper Mulching Techniques
The way you apply mulch in your landscape is important to the health of your plants and trees. The following are some simple steps to follow when applying mulch:Naturally Speaking is our blog where we explain horticultural trends and concerns. We cover proper lawncare techniques and answer any questions you have.
– Determine whether soil drainage is adequate and if there are plants that may be affected by the choice of mulch. Most commonly available mulches work well in most landscapes. Some plants may benefit from the use of slightly acidifying mulch, such as pine bark.
– For well-drained sites, apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of mulch (less if poorly drained)
– Apply the mulch up to the edge of a tree’s crown or beyond. A farther spread is more beneficial to the health of the tree.
– If mulch is already present, check the depth. Assuming that sufficient mulch is present, refresh the appearance with a rake rather than adding new mulch.
– If mulch is piled against the stems or tree trunks, pull it back several inches/centimeters so that the base of the trunk is exposed. Mulch piled against a tree’s trunk causes too much moisture to build up around the root ball. This can lead to fungus, rot and decay and ultimately lead to the trees death.
Or if you would like to sit back and relax and watch the pros spread your mulch, Click Here or give us a call for an edging/mulching quote today!
Common Lawn & Landscape Terms: Weed Control
Pre-Emergent Controls are herbicides used to halt weed development when the roots begin to germinate. We control annual weeds like Crabgrass using a pre-emergent product in March before they have a chance to grow.
Post-Emergent Control is used to control most broad-leaf weeds such as dandelion or chickweed. These products go down after they have grown and stop them in their tracks. Some weeds such as ground ivy or oxalis are more resilient and may require multiple treatments.
Snow Mold & Prevention Techniques
Spring is nearly here and we’re looking forward to lush green lawns, but given the extreme cold and constant snow cover we have seen from early December through March we unfortunately have perfect conditions for Pink & Grey Snow Mold to develop. Snow Mold is a fungi that damages the turf by infesting the crown which is the area of the blade closest to the soil. The disease requires temperatures around 32°-36° which is maintained by the insulation provided by snow cover or grass that was not mowed prior to winter and has been matted down.
Preventing snow mold can be tricky but here are two simple cultural control tips:
- Mow your lawn to 2 1/2″ before winter to prevent grass blades from becoming matted
- Clear leaves and other debris from the lawn before the first snow
- Lightly rake any matted areas in the spring to allow airflow around the grass blades
Another option to avoid snow mold is to apply a preventative fungicide application before your lawn is covered in snow. However, these applications can be expensive and we rarely recommend them for snow mold prevention. Often the damage seen in the spring is mostly cosmetic meaning it will grow out after proper fertilization and raking of the affected area.
If you have any questions about snow mold or any other lawn ailment, call us today to speak with a licensed and knowledgeable horticulturalist.
330-650-4251 or 440-975-8282
What is Integrated Pest Management?
Integrated Pest Management is a sustainable method of pest control that focuses on four techniques to effectively manage pests in your lawn & landscape. Our skilled technicians practice IPM to manage pests such as weeds and grubs while responsibly managing herbicides and other products to minimize environmental impact.
The four steps to an effective Integrated Pest Management program are:
- Monitoring & Identifying Pests
- Setting Tolerances & Thresholds for Action: Grubs can cause tremendous harm to your lawn but the risk of damage is low until there are more than 5 grubs / square foot.
- Prevention: We put down crabgrass pre-emergent in early spring to prevent crabgrass seeds from germinating.
- Control: Common broadleaf weeds such as dandelions are easily controlled with herbicide when they are young and actively growing.
So here is an example of IPM in action: Broadleaf weeds have started to appear during mid-late spring when we are treating our second lawncare application. Instead of blanketing herbicides over your entire lawn area which would use excessive product and risk damage to your garden areas, we spot treat spraying only the weeds. This may take more time but it is this level of care and detail that sets Naylor Nutrilawn apart. We strive to minimize our environmental impact and maximize results.
Emerald Ash Borer: How does it affect you?
This pesky parasite traveled to the Americas from Asia over the past decade and has been causing severe damage to our local Ash tree populations. This invasive species was found in Michigan in 2002 after apparently traveling from Asia in shipping crates.The ash borer gets its name from its feeding pattern, during the larvae cycle, of boring through the bark into the phloem of the tree, (where nutrients travel throughout.)
If you are seeing holes in your ash trees and are concerned about losing them to this invasive species give us a call to discuss options varying from various insecticide treatments to alternative plant material.
Visit emeraldashborer.info for more information.
